CHAPTER V—PORTS AND WATERWAYS | About Perak



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" Lo, as the bark that hath discharged her fraught

Returns’ with "precious”lading to the bay

From whence at first she weigh'd her anchorage."

Tituti Andronicus.

 Having described the internal communications by road and rail, a few words on the Ports and Waterways of Perak will not be out of place.


Beginning from the northern boundary o£ the State, there are eleven navigable rivers used by coasting steamers and native craft trading with Perak. First, there is the Krian river, in its upper course dividing Perak from the Malay State of Kedah; but, for the last few miles before it reaches the sea, wholly in British Territory. This considerable stream is only navigable for native boats in the upper reaches, practically as far as Selama, while nothing larger than a steam launch can cross the bar except at high water. There are only seven feet on the bar at the top of spring tides. Nevertheless, there is a daily steam launch service from Penang to Nibong Tebal in Province Wellesley ; and, before the pontoon bridge was constructed, these launches ascended to Parit Buntar, the principal station of the Krian District of Perak and a place of some importance as the centre of a large rice and sugar producing country. There is a very considerable trade carried by native craft between Parit Buntar and Penang. A little further south, is the Gula river giving access to the large sugar estate of that name; and, further south, yet, is the Kurau river, navigable for steam launches


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and native craft. But, here again, the shallowness of the water on the bar is a difficulty. There is a large fishing village at the mouth of the Kurau river and, higher up, are Sungei Siakap and Bagan Serai, both thriving places, while the banks of the river are covered with splendid sugar canes as far as the eye can reach. This river is fringed by the nipah palm of which 'atap' (thatch) is made; and, from the head waters, are floated down quantities of valuable timber that find their way to Penang.


Still going southward, there are the Silensing and Larut rivers, by either of which vessels can reach Port Weld and Matang—the former the terminus of the Larut Railway, the latter the terminus of the Taipeng-Matang road.


Between Port Weld and Penang, there is daily communication by coasting vessels of small draught, while Matang is much patronised by native sailing craft. From Port Weld to Taipeng, the principal town of Larut and also of the State, there is no cart road,—only a railway and bridle road. But, by taking their goods to Matang and loading them in bullock carts. Native traders find that they can get them more cheaply and, sometimes with less breakage, to their own doors in Taipeng, Kuala Kangsar, orKinta, than by shipping in steamers, discharging into the railway at Port Weld and then having to resort to the bullock cart to get them to their destination.


Port Weld is interesting from the fact that, in spite of its position as the spot where 'wheel meets keel'; in spite of its comparative proximity to Penang (40 miles); its daily arrival and de-


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parture of steamers and its fresh water supply from the Larut hills, it remains an absolute failure as a Settlement. The inhabitants of Port Weld are Government employes and half a dozen petty shopkeepers to supply their wants and those of a neighbouring fishing village. The lesson taught is one that should not be thrown away, for the Government has spent very considerable sums in building good wharves, bunding out the sea, making roads, and laving on pure water. The fact is, however, that Port Weld is simply a place of transit, a station at which to walk from ship to train or vice versa, and everything that has to be done there can be done perfectly without the presence of the people who find it pleasanter and more profitable to live in Taipeng or elsewhere. The very facilities afforded by the Government, a few yards of planking dividing train from steamer, conduce to this result. And if a business man thinks it necessary to go to Port Weld to superintend the discharge of shipping of goods, if he will not trust the railway or steamer people, or has no one to send, why should he stay at a disagreeable place when twenty minutes, training will take him home again ? No, Port Weld is a type of such places ; and none of them will develop into the Singapores and Hongkongs of the future—because the circumstances are totally different.


Between the Larut and Perak Rivers there are the Trong, Jarum Mas, Bruas, and Dinding ; but, though each is frequented by a few native craft, they are, none of them, worth more than passing mention.


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The Perak River, has, for years, been of importance ; because, by this river and its tributary, the Kinta, was, until recently, the only access to the Districts of Kinta, Batang Padang, and Lower Perak. Kinta is the greatest tin-producing District in Perak. Batang Padang promises to follow in its footsteps, and Lower Perak is a country capable of great agricultural development which, until two years ago, did a large trade in atap nipa with Sumatra ; and, since the prospects of tobacco are reviving, may do so again.


But, now, on the Perak River, forty miles from its mouth, has grown out of the jungle an important and prosperous town called Teluk Anson. This town is the terminus of the Kinta Valley Railway, the value of which undertaking has already been explained. The entrance to the Perak River is well lighted, the bar offers no difficulties to coasting steamers, the river as far as Teluk Anson is wide and deep ; and, while there is a daily steamer service to Penang, there is communication every other day with the coast ports to the southward ending with Singapore, Teluk Anson is the market of the Lower Perak District and, as such, occupies a very different position from a port without trade of its own; moreover, it has no rival to fear ; for, if, as seems unlikely, a railway should be constructed from Kinta to the Dinding River, Teluk Anson would still remain the port of Lower Perak, Batang Padang, and the wide stretch of country between these places and the boundary with Selangor.

The Bernam River, from source to mouth, forms the southern boundary of Perak. Once the bar is crossed, and that can be done


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at half-tide, the river is navigable for steamers for about seventy miles, but at present the population is very small, and their needs are supplied by native vessels.


Practically, then, the trade of Perak with the outside world is carried on through two ports—Teluk Anson and Port Weld; and, when it is considered that the trade is worth roughly twenty millions of dollars annually, and that almost all passengers are dependent on the steamers which carry it, something more than a mild surprise may be expressed at the character of the accommodation which is offered. From Port Weld to Penang is forty miles, and from Teluk Anson to Penang 130 miles. But. during the south-west monsoon, the weather, though not quite what is met with in the English Channel, is still sufficiently unpleasant to make anyone hesitate to attempt even so short a journey on vessels, whose owners seem fully satisfied if they can get safely from port to port in any length of time, carrying as heavy a cargo and as many deck passengers as possible; neither cargo nor passengers being the pleasantest of companions in even the calmest weather. The vessels are said to be all owned in Singapore or Penang, where some of them were built, when and by whom would probably puzzle the ‘oldest inhabitant’ to tell.

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